Circular Wrapping

One of the most difficult projects in wrapping is the round surface--what I can tin wrapping. I demonstrated how to wrap a bottle in an earlier post and you could use that same concept here but the problem occurs that you still have exposed surfaces when you cut the tabs. When the bottom of the surface is round, this isn't  usually a problem.

In professional gift wrapping circles there are two modes of thought--(1) the bottom of the package isn't important because that is where the mechanics are usually hidden. The most important part of wrapping is the shown surfaces; and (2) it all matters because all surfaces have the possibility of being seen. 

The closest analogy that I can offer is that of floral arranging. If the arrangement is going to be seen from all angles (360 degrees) then the florist has to keep all sides of the arrangement in mind. If the arrangement is only going to be seen from the front (the arrangement is presented in front a flat surface where people can't go behind it) then the florist concentrates on the front/face of the arrangement.

I fall in the first category of gift wrappers. When I can make the bottom look pretty, I will but I mainly concentrate on the shown surfaces.

Having said that--I want to demonstrate how to wrap two round surfaces (top and bottom or front and back). The two most common shapes that I wrap in the round are cookie/candy tins and circular hat boxes. The wrapping is the same for both.

Step One: Choosing paper. A better quality paper is desirable for this project because you will be making pleats with the paper. You will be folding and pulling the paper toward the center on the object and trying to get it to lie flat without too many dimples. Good quality paper is a very forgiving material in this case. Spend the extra money. Also, a slightly thicker paper is preferable as well (in other words, high fiber content). Your paper will be less likely to tear if you use a thicker paper.

Step Two: Measure out the paper. The width of the paper should wrap around the object (circumference) and should overlap by one or two inches (I recommend two inches). You can measure this with a cloth tape measure or just roll the object to be wrapped along the paper and mark it.

The height of the paper should be the height of the object plus the radius of the object times two (top and bottom) or if you want to get mathematical--the diameter of the object. In other words, you want the paper to reach approximately half the distance of the bottom and/or top of the object. Be careful in this measurement because you don't want too much excess paper for the pleating.

Step Three: Making the cylinder. Center the object on the paper. (I usually make a pencil line to follow so I don't skew the object while I am rolling it). Start at one end of the paper and tape one end of the object (using regular transparent tape). Roll the object on its side along the paper. When you get to the opposite edge of the paper, secure with double sided tape only along the side of the object (not over the entire edge of paper). Now you should have a giant cylinder on its side.

Step Four: Starting the pleats.I suggest that you start on the bottom surface because the first pass of pleating never goes as well as you would expect. You simply need a flat surface at this point so the top pleats (the surface being seen) is easier to fold (and will turn out much better). Don't fret, you will revisit the bottom once the top is completed.

Starting with the flap that is closed to the object.  Keep in mind, you have an overlap of about two inches of paper. The bottom flap of paper is the one that has become overlapped by the top layer. Use this bottom layer to start. This is actually kind of important later. Using both hands--take the thumb of your left had and hold it against the base of the object. Using your thumb and forefinger of your right hand (I am right handed), pinch the paper while pulling it against the base of the object while simultaneously pulling the paper toward the center of the object. This first pleat is the most important step of the whole process because it will set the measurement for the rest of the pleats. If you get the angle wrong, you will realize it about half way through and you will have to start over again. Try and angle the fold/pleat toward the center of the object while folding flush against the base/rim. Move the thumb of the left hand along the bast until you are ready to make your next pleat. Believe it or not, the paper will let you know where the next pleat will go because it will pucker against the base of the object. Here is where patience is needed. Continue along the bottom of the object until you reach the final flap. Once you made the final pleat, fold the last pleat (extra paper) under the first pleat that you made. Don't worry if it isn't perfect because this is the bottom of the container. Turn the object over and repeat for the top of the container. Your wrapping should look something like the picture below.

Notice that the final flap is not tucked under the beginning pleat in this photo.

For the sake of demonstration, I used brown craft paper to show you that even with such rudimentary materials, this can work. Above you can notice the puckering/dimples that occur along the base of the pleats. When good quality paper is used, this puckering will be less noticeable. Also, craft paper is not a very fibrous material so it isn't necessarily very forgiving.

Now that that top is completed, revisit the bottom and refold if necessary. If you need to secure some of the pleats, do so with double sided tape placed on the underside of the pleat. You should only need to tape one or two pleats for them to lie down.

Step Five: Finishing touches. Once you are satisfied with the top and bottom surfaces, you can apply whatever finishing touches you desire. Here, I used a simple burgundy wired satin ribbon to finish off the package. While not perfect, it still is better than just giving a tin of cookies to someone.